Thursday, January 10, 2013

The song the 12 days of Christmas has been running through my head since that is how many days the kids were here; I’m thinking setting my blog post to music is just too weird, so I’ll do a daily recap instead; but feel free to hum along! “On the twelve days of Christmas, my kids came to France, and we all had a fabulous time”

My biggest worry for the trip was how Liam at almost 14 months old would travel through the night.  

Well, little did I know, he would be the least of my worries!  I took the train to the airport on Wednesday the 19^th and stayed at the airport Hilton in order to meet the kids as they got off the plane and through customs.  Since it was their first visit, we decided figuring out the train system was just too much…….yes, they’re all adults, yes, they’re perfectly capable; but it made me feel better knowing I was there and it did make it easier for themJ

Imagine my panic, I’m at the hotel, when Calum texts me that they are on the way to the airport and Lindsay is hanging her head out the window vomiting on our 6 lane road- 85 South.  At first we hoped it was just nervousness and excitement about the trip or possibly eating junk food at her school party that afternoon, but alas, there was a good reason she had five children out sick that day from her class. The dreaded stomach virus!!!  When he texted again saying she was hanging out the window….argh………So, amid my concern I texted asking if Tristan was laughing (which he was). 

Poor thing, I won’t go into vivid details(which are hysterical, but hers to share), but laying on the floor at the airport waiting for a flight was never in her plan for the evening. She was sooooo sick that Calum visited stores getting free plastic bags for her usage.    One lady tried to help by bringing her water and a salad!!!  Really, who bring salad to a vomiting person???   Let’s just say it was NOT a fun time …but being the true McCulloch that she is, she managed to get on the plane.  I was worried about them all getting sick, including other passengers; fortunately, she was very careful and kept to herself and everyone else escaped. She was able to “discretely” visit the airplane restroom when she felt the urge to be sick……Liam did great on the flight by the way.

So, on my first day of Christmas they arrived after a very long wait for bags.  I met up with Nathan Bramsen, a missionary friend of ours who landed at the same time on a different flight, and he and I had an hour and a half to chat before the kids ever came through the gates. Then as they came through Tristan and Katie were delayed because their brand new, purchased for the trip stroller was in four parts looking as if it fell of something and got run over repeatedly.  They had to file a claim and do paperwork before coming out to meet me. Later we realized Lindsay’s suitcase was missing a chunk and a wheel too, but we discovered it too late to deal with it.

Lindsay was a bit better by then and she was able to rest on the train as we headed to Tours.  We’re an hour and a half train ride from the airport so they all had a bit of a doze while I played with Liam.  We had a taxi van waiting at the train station complete with car seat as we knew with that many people it would take two trips for Ross to get us.  Calum was pleased as it was his first situation where someone was waiting for us with a sign that said “McCulloch”.  He always threatens to meet me at the Atlanta airport dressed in a suit with a sign.

I explained to the taxi driver that for their first time in France I wanted to take a certain route to get home.  We have choices, but I think the view coming off the river road into Luynes is pretty special including a view of the chateau. Plus it takes us through the little downtown with all its charm.  I had my fist big smile when I asked the kids if they were impressed with the scenery as we entered Luynes and Tristan replied he was more impressed watching me converse and speak in another language; Lindsay chimed in too and they all made me feel quite good about myself when they were so impressed with my “skills”. I need to remember that when I fell discouraged and lacking in vocabulary.  The more I know, the more I realize I need to learn!!! It was nice for me to feel confident enough to be able to talk with the driver and explain the route I wanted; so a year in I have made progress!!!  The kids did laugh at my directions saying things like “a gauche” – left or “a droit”-right, then their favorite “a tout droit” straight! Tristan said it sounded like I was saying something naughty!

We met Ross at the house about 4:30 PM, where he had put the food in the crock pot for me that morning; so we were able to eat fairly early and they could get showers and head to bed! The kids had been up most of the past 24 hours so crashing was the main idea for night one!!

Friday, we had a quiet day where Liam got up early and Ross and I HAD to entertain him while the others slept in !!!!   Then the girls headed with me to the grocery store for Liam supplies and the boys walked around Luynes where Ross took a photo of them under a sign for trucks saying 2 meters was the maximum height.  Since Calum is two meters tall and Tristan a bit taller, it made for a fun photo. Just a fairly relaxing day.  Dinner together involved lots of talking and laughter!!   Even a grocery store was a fun visit for the girls seeing where I shop and the different products.  We took Ross’ “big car” which has all the bells and whistles, but still is a standard transmission.  This was their moment of ‘luxury” as later they’d be in my little putt putt car!!  Ross and I picked up a rental 9 passenger van that day to use for a week rather than drive two cars everywhere.

Saturday, the 22^nd,  we took the van into Luynes and parked downtown and we took the bus into Tours. Riding the bus here is always an experience!  We walked the old part of the city and through the fresh markets.  Lindsay was grossed out by the “freshness” of the meats-including heads and feet on most!   We headed up the Rue National where all the shops are and the tramway tracks are nearly complete.  Since we’ve lived here, one bridge over the Loire has been shut and the Rue National has been a mess.  We headed to the main street for the Marche de Noel which is a series of craftsmen in booths up and down the road for the month of December. BUT, as we got to that point it started to POUR buckets and we all decided to bag it and head home.  We got off the bus in Luynes where Calum, Lindsay and I headed to the bakery for bread for dinner and Ross took the rest to get the van.  As he pulled into Luynes to pick us up, he misjudged the length of the van and scraped a car as he pulled in. ARGH! I about had a heart attack.  Fortunately it was a rub more than a scrape and the lady was sitting in her car as it happened.  I explained about the rental van and the kids arriving, she looked at the little mark on the rubber of her car and said “no problem”….ahhhh, so thankful she was so sweet and understanding!!!

That evening we took the family to Le XII, the local restaurant in Luynes.  It’s part of the hotel our friends own and I wanted the kids to experience one truly French classy meal.  So, here in France, the choices for the “plats” are limited to what the chef offers that day, usually a choice of one of two appetizers, one of two meals and one of two desserts.  Before the meal they serve a first course which this night was in a shot glass shaped thing, a squash puree with chunks of fish in it.  I liked it but the kids were iffy on that.  Liam loved it though!!  Tristan and Calum liked the taste but would have preferred it hot, not cold.  Lindsay and Katie, not so much.  There was also a little dish of something I’m not sure what it was except the topping was crushed beetroot over something.  It was tasty, but not a good start as the kids are now wondering what they were in for.  Appetizer wise everyone got the same except Katie.  She had an egg/risotto/marlin thing which was good but very rich.  We all had a celery puree soup with scallops floating in it with bits of tart apple on top. FABULOUS!  Lindsay hates seafood so her scallops were shared among us.  Everyone got the same main dish except Tristan; he got a white fish which he said was the best fish he’s ever eaten.  We all got a pork dish stuffed with shrimp  with parsnips and puree potatoes.  It was delicious and everyone loved it. PHEW!!!  Tristan opted for the cheese plate for dessert which he savored every bite and loved it.  We all went for the dessert of the day which was a plate with five little desserts, each better than the rest. YUM!  Even though the evening started out with us wondering if we were going to waste a lot of money on food no one liked, in the end it was a great meal and everyone enjoyed it.  The restaurant is built into the troglodyte cave too so the atmosphere is pretty neat.  I asked and was able to show them the back meeting room which is dug into the cave with a rounded ceiling and stone walls. It was fun for them to see how some people have restored the caves and made them usable and livable.  We have a whole area of homes built into the caves, which amazes me.

Sunday, the 23^rd, we headed to church where we were able to introduce the kids to our friends.  The kids were able to experience firsthand the frustration we felt of not knowing a language and sitting through songs and a message and not understanding.  We wanted them to be able to visualize it and see what we had to overcome to be an active party of the church here. The people were very welcoming and very impressed with the size of our family.  They used to think I was a giant in France! In my family I’m with the girls on the short side!

After church we headed to Breze which is a chateau built for war.  The actual chateau is okay, but what is amazing is the underground carved into the limestone.  They would have been able to send the entire village underground complete with animals and be able to cook and survive.  It has the longest dry moat in France, also all hand carved out.  We did realize that as our boys get together , they become teenagers again.  We all laugh at their antics and their theme of the entire trip seemed to be “Well, there isn’t a sign saying we can’t”. They climbed things and got into areas I’m sure were not meant for visitors; they were too funny.  Liam loved being able to walk freely with us during parts of the underground as well as in the dry moat.  He seems to like freedom best and is happiest when wandering and exploring on his own.  I loved watching him toddle off with his Papa at his side.

That evening I cooked a traditional French dish called Tartiflette for dinner.  It has potato, lardon ( a bacon like meat), wine and cheese in it.  The cheese used in it is special for this dish and taste wise, it’s mild and yummy, but odor wise…PHEW…. It’s potent.  In fact, when Katie asked if it was okay to put Liam’s poopy diaper in the trash because it would smell, Tristan replied “Well it can’t smell any worse than her fridge”

Monday, the 24^th,  we left early for a road trip to Paris.  All of us in our big van and we drove to Massey and parked there and then took the local train into the city.  It was much easier and cheaper than parking in Paris.  We arrived at the Notre Dame station so everyone was happy to visit the church first.  It’s gorgeous and they were busy setting up for a special Christmas Eve mass that night. We had warned everyone that downtown was the number one pickpocket place in Paris.  Within seconds of arriving at Notre Dame, we all were accosted by the Roms (gypsies from Romania) trying to “talk” or get you to sign something while their friend move in and jostle you in order to steal from you.  They have quite a system and you almost have to be rude to them and shove away.  Tristan had done research and purchased this special backpack that is pick pocket proof, so he kept all Liam’s things and their items safe in it.  Lindsay and I wore our small purses over the shoulder under our coats.  Ross and Calum had nothing in their pants pockets.  It’s terrible to have to be so careful, but even at the Eiffel Tower, there are signs on the elevator to beware of pick pockets. The Roms have an organized system and if you sit on a park bench you can watch them work, it’s pitiful.  Brussels is really bad too, but Paris is by far the worst.  It can be as innocent as someone helping you, then you get jostled by others as part of their group.  They’re very in your face and get disgusted when you ignore them or say no.

We did a double decker bus tour where you see the sights around the city and can get off and on at attractions. The kids all stayed up on top while ross, Liam and I enjoyed the wind free, warmer section inside. Liam sat with me and loved standing on the seat and looking out the window.   We were worried that Christmas Eve might be a terrible time to go to Paris, but it actually was not bad at all.  We had lunch near the base of the tower at a little sidewalk café, which was interesting!  After lunch we separated as Tristan and Katie took Liam and headed to the Architecture Museum. The rest of us headed to the tower where we waited only 30 minutes, which is amazing.  Sometimes the line is two or three hours long.  The guard told me it was the quietest he’s ever seen.  Ross, Lindsay, Calum and I went to the 2^nd tier of the tower. The way top was closed, but the view from our spot up high was AMAZING!  I don’t like heights, but it is all fenced around and safe and well worth the trip up.  You can walk around the whole tower and see Paris from every angle, just magnificent!  We walked around and swa what we could of the city before we met up again with Tristan and Katie outside Notre Dame as it was getting dark and lights were going on, beautiful.  We took the train back to Massey and then our three hour drive home.  We planned to stop for dinner, but forgetting it was Christmas Eve, nothing was open except a gas station.  We got sandwiches, which were much like US sandwiches from a gas station. BLEH!

Christmas morning everyone slept in except for me and Ross.  We had appointments at the baker and butcher.  YES, they were open Christmas morning!!!  We got our baked goods(fresh chocolate croissants, etc) for breakfast, bread for dinner as well as the three buche de noel for dinner dessert! Off to the butcher for the meat.  I had been in asking for advice the week before and described that I was making meals with beef, chicken, horse( yes I cooked one meal with a small piece of horse meat so the boys could try it-it wasn’t bad but you have to wrap your mind around it-Katie couldn’t taste it since she had a horse growing up) , escargot, and duck….so I wanted something different for Christmas day.  I got a kg veal roast as well as a kg biche roast.  Biche is baby deer, which in the US I think is illegal.  He gave me cooking instructions for the roasts as well as sauces to heat up for each.  The veal had a cream mushroom sauce and the biche had a red current sauce.  First you soak the biche in red wine for an hour prior to cooking.  It was a new experience for me cooking both, so what relief when they turned out and turned out terrific!  Lindsay even preferred the biche!!!  I had also gotten pate for the luncheon. I was doing a table of snacks and munchies for lunch, including the baker’s fresh cranberry loaf which was out of this world!  At the butcher I had asked which kind of pate and ended up buying the canard (duck).  I had originally looked at the pate de fois gras but it was 119 euro a kg so NO WAY!!! In the end he sliced off a piece and just gave it to us as a gift.  We had Ross’ cousin Laura and her husband Christopher for the day and he and Ross LOVED the fois gras.  I tried a bite, but they can take the 119 euro a kg and keep it!!!  I just can’t wrap myself around the flavors of the pates.  So, I was glad they enjoyed it.  Everyone tried it and the boys liked it okay, the girls, not so much.!  It was odd for me to see places open on Christmas, I had pre-ordered which was the only way to get your items that day, but still.  The baker wasn’t quite finished with our order, so I went back an hour later. The line was out the door and down the block, almost all men; it must be their jobs to pick up the family order Christmas morning.  As is the usual bakery line, no matter how slow it goes, or how many people, you just wait politely and no one complains-EVER!  That still amazes me, in America a line that slow would get complaints, especially as the baker takes time to visit or wrap things up fancy; but not here, it’s just part of the experience!

Laura (Ross’ cousin) and her husband Christopher live three hours away on the coast, so it was fun to have them here.  We skyped Scotland and the US as well as phone calls from England and to the US!  Very international of us!  We all enjoyed Laura’s THICK Scottish accent; all these years in France and she’s maintained her accent nicely!

Wednesday, December 26^th we got up early for another road trip, this time for two days in Normandy.  It is three hours away and a nice drive.  The boys had one desire in France and it was to see Normandy.  We had such a good time, even though it was very sobering visiting the American Cemetery and Museum as well as Saint Mere Eglise where the paratroopers landed.  We also went to the Airborne Museum, Utah and Omaha Beaches.  We ate at a little café along Juno Beach where the British and Canadians landed.

We also saw the Bayeux Tapestry which is enormous and tells the entire story of the French history over years and years ending with William the Conqueror, who until the end of his life had been known as William the Bastard.  It was amazing and made things so very real.  What sacrifices were made by those who fought as well as the families back home.  It was even moving so hear stories and read about the young Germans who fought because they had to, and not because they believed in the war. Very, very sobering.

 It is a beautiful area and I’d like to go back and see more, we barely touched the surface. The American museum and cemetery is considered American soil and is free to enter.  A lot of security and xray machines which was nice, but it has been done beautifully and seeing the crosses and Stars of David on the graves…wow!  Calum, Lindsay and Tristan each got sand at Utah Beach to bring home.  Calum has several old men friends at the Cracker Barrel waiting for some sand.  Ross, Katie, Liam and I stayed in the van for that as it was freezing, raining and windy!  I would love to go in the spring and walk through the towns and see more.

We walked along the pier at Juno Beach and the boys decided to climb the rocks to the pier rather than come back along the beach like normal people.  They had us all waiting for an accident and a fall, and then realized once they climbed over the wall, there WAS a sign saying stay off the rocks!!! Idiots!!

Friday the 28^th was a quiet day in Luynes.  In the morning Calum went with me to the grocery store while others slept in.  He likes the scan as you go system for ease of check out. While we were discussing which duck to buy, a lady asked us if we were American?  She heard our voices and said she could tell…..She is an American as well living here for her second volleyball season.  Her husband plays for the Tours team which is number one in France right now.  He also played for the US team at the Olympics this summer. It was fun to meet her and chat together in our little French grocery mart.  

 Later that day, Tristan and Katie took the bus into tours to visit some buildings and churches.  Ross stayed home for a rest and Lindsay, Calum and I took Liam to the little circus in Luynes.  We had front row seats and it was a kind of poor family gypsy circus.  We had soooo much fun.  Liam LOVED it and sat enthralled the entire time.  It went on for two full hours and was kind of lame yet so fun.  When I say we were front row, I mean Liam could put his hand on the stage, so I was glad when the four circus guys stood right by us as the tiger appeared.  He was three feet in front of us.  Lindsay held Liam on her lap keeping him still and the men watched us the whole time ready to jump if the tiger came our way.  Mostly Liam sat with Calum and watched everything.  The front row was awesome but it made me a bit nervous at times with the fire juggling, flinging things and the very big snake(which ended up being rubber, but who knew), but we all watched carefully and had Liam safe.  Calum knew his job was the save the baby at all costs!  They seemed to use every member of their family oldest to youngest, so I was pleased they work for a living and provide entertainment rather than begging and pickpocketing as so many others do. Very silly fun indeed….it was no Ringling Brothers, but a fun small town event! All their props are homemade and costumes appeared to be well worn.  It ran every day here from December 9-30 and people come from all over.  It’s the tenth year in Luynes and now for a month or two they run “circus school classes” and kids sign up, pay and learn tightrope walking, juggling, etc.

Saturday, the 29^th, we headed to Amboise and Close Luce.  Amboise is 45 minutes from here and we took two cars having returned the rental van the day before.  Tristan started out with me but had to have his head bent in both the front and back seats of my little cars, so we switched….Lindsay, Katie and Liam rode with me in my little car and the guys went together.  Close Luce is where Leonardo Da Vinci spent the last years of his life as a friend of the French king.  They have made a museum about his engineering marvels.  It’s something else!  The chateau at Amboise is gorgeous with amazing views and has been restored nicely, but Close Luce is the most fun.  There is a walkway and pond where there are working models of his projects.  Liam LOVED the merry go round based on his designs.  The boys were like giant children touching and playing with everything.  We ate at a crepe-ry which was a fun experience, you get a two course meal, a savory crepe or gallette with ham or chicken, etc and then for dessert a sweet crepe with chocolate or caramel plus a glass of hard cider.  We couldn’t figure out the cider thing, but it’s tradition.

Sunday the 30^th we headed to Chambord which was built as a hunting chateau….oh my!! It was used to base the castle on in Disney’s Beauty and the Beast.  It was amazing and absolutely gorgeous.  They used Leonardo’s helix designed staircase in the center and it is an unbelievable place.  Lindsay wants us to rent it out for her wedding! I had brought baguette sandwiches so we had a chilly park bench picnic at the chateau. I did a traditional duck confit for dinner which was enjoyed by all. I am impressed by my new French cooking skills, especially in my dinky kitchen with a temperamental stovetop!  The girls laughed with me at trying to do anything with a tiny, tiny counter space!!

Monday the 31^st, brought the last day of the year as well as the last day for the kids here in Luynes.  I went with the girls to the store to shop for BUTTER….yes, that’s what they wanted to take home.  They crack me up. Now, keep in mind the butter here is fabulous!!!  We took the kids to the train station and put them on the train for Paris where they spent the night at the Airport Hilton before flying out the next morning.  I admit to squalling a bit saying goodbye.  We can walk them right out to the train so they were in their seats as we stood at the tracks- me, with tears running! They said Liam was his funniest ever on the train and they laughed and laughed.

It was a busy time, but also a lot of fun, our evenings spent with Uno tournaments and then game after game of Settlers of the Catan.  The kids seemed to not enjoy it at first, but once we got going, it was a great game for us.  We even had one VERY late night laughing and playing until one in the morning!!  For me, a night that late is unheard of!  It’s a fun game with some strategy involved, but we’re all McCulloch’s, so winning is important!!!

We loved seeing Liam walking and hearing his new language skills.  Of course we think he’s brilliant, but he was very good at letting us know he knew who each of us was.  Of course he’s good at Mama and Dada …….Every so often Calum got “Ca”, Lindsay got an occasional “Zee”; he really understood the difference between Nana and banana so I was pleased. He’d say Nana, but was most impressed with himself saying Papa (pronounce p a (like in apple) pah).  Katie’s dad is Poppa and the little stinker says them both clearly and knows the difference.  Anyway, maybe 20 times a day he’d say Papa look to Ross and then and wait for Ross to smile at him; which of course Ross did!

Tristan pays games with him like a hide and seek thing where Liam shrieks in giggles; or Tristan chases him and scares him and Liam LOVES it and laughs and laughs.  We were all like stupid goof balls watching every move Liam makes and finding him entertaining.  I had a box of toys for him to play with and his favorite thing to do was fling everything on the floor before deciding what to play with.  He’d also pick up one of Sophie’s toys and tease her a bit with it and then give it to her.  Funny they both knew which toys were for Liam and which were dog toys……

The flight home was uneventful-yahoo….the new stroller purchased in France made it fine; Liam did great; Lindsay was healthy; they had the bulkhead so YEA for leg room!!!  Lindsay took one of our cases instead of hers, which went the way of the trash man.  At the new international terminal in Atlanta they are very state of the art as well as having men with dogs going around sniffing luggage.  Imagine Lindsay’s surprise when she went to put her case in the car to discover it was wet and smelled like dog pee.  We think one of the drug sniffing dogs lifted his leg on it.  Had she discovered it earlier, they could have filed a complaint, but alas, it meant everything inside needed washing and the case got a good soap and water hose down!!  Fortunately her butter was double-bagged and safe!!  Only the clothing needed a good wash!

We’ve skyped everyone since they’ve gone home.  It took a few days to settle back into routine and get over the tired, I’ve been on a trip feeling.  Here, we did laundry, put the tree up, cleaned a bit and then had a couple very lazy days before Ross started work again this past Monday.

I am so thankful they all could come and see our little corner of the world.  It’s nice for them to have a visual, so when we skype or talk about things, they can picture the place.  I’m thinking in the future they’ll come in smaller groups or alone, so this was a fun experience for all of us to have together.  I head back for two weeks at the end of March and Lindsay will come back with me for her spring break.  Calum is coming in May as soon as class ends and he will do an 8 week internship at SKF.  I’m looking forward to both visits and enjoying some one on one time with them.  Tristan and Katie are deciding when they’d like to come next as a family; we said it would be nice if they could take a couple days together in Paris to explore and we’d be more than happy to entertain Liam here!!!

So, I’m off again……it’s a rainy, dreary week here in Luynes (what else is new)…..I am SOOOO ready for a sunny day.  It kind of reminds me here of growing up near Buffalo when the winters were long and greyish(without the massive snowfalls).  When the kids were here we had a bit of rain, some cold and some wind; but it was actually decent crisp weather.  But, now we’re back to dreary!!  Last January and February were soooo cold and the temperatures here look to be dropping next week, but I’m hoping for it to be a bit warmer than it was last year!!  I’ve never been so cold in my life.  Of course, we’ve figured out the heating system in the house now, so that will help!!  School today, I wonder if the first week back is as difficult here as the US….I always felt like we had to re-train the kids after a two week break! More soon as I find the funny, interesting or odd in France!